No problem! Just make sure you let the primer and paints dry before applying a new color.

The first step is to undercoat the model. This is done by using a spray primer (though you can get a painted on version, its easier to spray). Since my models are going to be dark, and I want the recesses to be dark, I use a black spray primer. If you want to use a lot of lighter colors, like yellow or white, it's best to use a white primer, as they generally don't show well on black. I make sure I cover the model with black primer, because I need all the areas to be black, although you should only do a light coat.

Next is my undercoat. The iron warrior color scheme is a metal body with gold trim. So I paint all the areas that are going to be metal with "boltgun metal," the darker of the metals used in citadel. Here you'll probably have a lot of metal paint on areas that arent supposed to be metal. After you've done the base coat, go over those areas with black to cover up the metal.

Next I do the trim. I use burnished gold, because when it is applied to black, it has more of an antique feel to it. If it is too bright in an area, I'll fix it when I ink in the next step. Go over the trim with a fine brush with the gold. Try to avoid getting gold onto the metal areas, but don't worry too much about it, you can always fix it later, plus it doesn't show that well on metal.

Now for inking. Inking is using ink (derrr) and mixing it with water (1:1) and then coating the model in it. What this does it darken the recesses even more and should leave some black water marks on the metal, and generally make it darker. It may not look like much now, but the next stage ties everything together. If there is a spot on the gold that is too bright, apply some ink there to darken it up.

Next I drybrush mithril silver on bolt gun areas. Drybrushing is a technique where you dip the brush into your paint, then wipe off about 80-90% of the paint. When you take the brush over the model, it will only apply the paint on the higher areas. In this case, it goes over the black ink water marks and such, making the model look dity and like it's been through years of battle :D Also you make get some metal on the gold areas, but if its just a little bit, leave it because it can make the trim look worn from it.

Details are all thats left, this includes stuff like eyes, holsters, guns, and other little stuff. How you want those to look is really up to you, but once you get the hang of drybrushing, you should be able to make them all look nice. I usually leave my guns black, then dry brush bolt gun metal on it, making the gun look like it's made from black metal and is slightly worn.

Hope that helps :thumb:

The iron warrior color scheme will look like this, except the brass areas would be more of an antique gold:
[url]http://www.forgeworld.co.uk/ironwarriors.htm[/url]

And yes, I do have that same model :lol:

[img]http://www.wizkidsgames.com/images/figures/Rotating/MKRE/MKRE_146.gif[/img]

I had one of these And I so Pwned everyone :lol:

Imagine Bass Warhammer.

With like Victor Wooten, Jaco Pastorius etc figurines.

^^Slaanesh chaos marines :lol: The Noise Marines!

That's it, I've cured my boredom.

I'm going to make rules for a Bass Wars version of Warhammer.

gaslight you need to stop posting untill i catch up with you

Hoppus wouldn't be very strong, but much like a Carrier dispatches tons of interceptors to defend it in Starcraft, he'd have the ability to summon millions of fans to wreak havoc on Jaco and Wooten.

It would be sickening.



Thanks for the info, Espbassor. :)

[QUOTE=Fox0r]Hoppus wouldn't be very strong, but much like a Carrier dispatches tons of interceptors to defend it in Starcraft, he'd have the ability to summon millions of fans to wreak havoc on Jaco and Wooten.

It would be sickening.



Thanks for the info, Espbassor. :)[/QUOTE]

No problem! When I get home next weekend, I'll try and get some photos of my models, I've been meaning to show them off, especially my chaos obliterators. They look better then the GW ones IMO :eek:

GW ones are here
[url]http://us.games-workshop.com/games/40k/chaosspacemarines/catalog/obliterator.htm[/url]

AHHHHHHH man...

You're making me love GW again :upset:.

If I get back into it I'll never afford the bass stuff I want.

How much is a set of paints and brushes? I'm gonna take a shower and head down to toys r us and see if I can find any army men type things with plastic that isn't too maliable. I don't want to bend them and have the paint chip off. :)

Gaslight, make an army and it will fight my home-made army. Then our guys can fight in your cardboard box before you put stickers on it to make it not look so homeless.
People will look at us and say "OMG LOOK AT THEM, THE GUY WITH THE FAKE **** IS TOTALLY GETTING STOMPPED! ... AND THEY'RE PLAYING IN A CARDBOARD BOX THAT LOOKS LIKE IT'S FROM AN ALLEY... WAIT, IT [b]IS IN[/b] AN ALLEY!!!"
We'll keep playing and they'll move in closer for a better look. As soon as they are close enough... [i]BAM[/i]! We jump them, take their stuff and go buy new bass stuff.

Both problems are solved: You get to have a new army AND new bass gear.
All I ask is 40% for helping plus 15% for thinking of the idea.

Hehe I'll have to get a lawyer to explain that to me :p.

Yeah, I'm really tired so I keep confusing myself and leaving out words and spelling stuff wrong. Pay no attention. :)

[QUOTE=gaslight]AHHHHHHH man...

You're making me love GW again :upset:.

If I get back into it I'll never afford the bass stuff I want.[/QUOTE]

Don't play dawn of war then. It's a great RTS based on warhammer 40k :thumb:

Fox0r: Depends on how much paint, what kind of paint and the quality of brushs. You can get away with just 4-5 colors if you use black as your primary color. Don't forget to buy primer though! The GW cans are like $8 and the prices for paint here are $2.25 for colors and $3.25 for inks and metallics for GW paints. You can probably get cheaper at an arts and crafts store. Brushes aren't really too expensive if you get the cheap ones. I recommend using an old brush for dry brushing anyway, since you tend to ruin them when you do that. So if you have any old brushes lying around then you should use that.

Also check some hobby stores, they may sell some warhammer stuff, and if not, they'll definatly sell flocking for basses. Any place that sells model trains usually does. GW also maintains a list of their stores on their website I believe (not too sure though) but ask around.

[QUOTE=Fox0r]Yeah, I'm really tired so I keep confusing myself and leaving out words and spelling stuff wrong. Pay no attention. :)[/QUOTE]

Hehe.

So... we attack tommorow.

Argh, why is it so cold in here? My hands are freezing :upset:

We'll meet up behind the old trainstation to formulate our strategy.

Esp: Where do you live?

Harrisburg PA :thumb:

BTW, what ever happened to LR doing these threads?

[QUOTE=Espbassor]BTW, what ever happened to LR doing these threads?[/QUOTE]

Yeah, and does anyone know what happened to her dad?? I hope she's alright.

Yeah, been kinda worried not seeing anything after a while? Hmm..maybe I should go down and see whats up...

Who is LR and what happened?

LR, or Light Raven, is a mod of these bass forums and to find out about her dad, go here:

[url]http://www.musicianforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=237671&highlight=Casual[/url]

It's been more than 2 weeks since her last post.

Heh, and the bass forum sends out a rescue team the next day.

Woah, 5 pages in 6 hours.

Hey Funk, what's up?

Hey dudes. I have almost no homework. I'd write a new song tonight, but I have to work :(




:amaze:

Nothing much, how about you.

The last couple pages are almost entire gaslight, Esp, and me. :D