How Do I Adjust My Action?

~~irishslappop~~ · 09-14-2005, 06:59 PM

For the FAQ thread:
Action is the term used to define the hieght of any string on your bass in relation to the fingerboard. if you you have to press relativly hard to fret a note then your action is considered too high. if when you play you get alot of fret buzz and your truss rod has been adjusted properly, then your action is too low.
to fix either problem is simple. your strings pull tight across saddles that are on your bridge. on most basses, these saddles will have alen screws in which you can make the saddles higher or lower when you turn it.

These are the screws which would adjust the action. Though bridges vary, in virtually all cases the relevant screws are at right angles to the body of the bass.

Remember - after adjusting your action ALWAYS retune your bass.

A low action is better for fast fretwork and tapping, but some people find that if it goes too low, techniques like slapping and popping become harder. A higher action will produce a very clear sound, but may be quite slow and tiring to play.

If you're finding playing tiring on the fingers, particularly if playing fast or tapping, try lowering your action. If you're getting fretbuzz (an atonal buzzing sound when you play a note) try raising it. Experiment, and find your ideal comprimise.

Note - if the truss rod isn't properly adjusted, you may find it very hard to find a comfortable action without fretbuzz.

The other factor for action is your truss rod. Your truss rod may have upbow (appearing concave from the side) or backbow (appearing convex from the side). Most fretted basses should be set-up to have a very slight upbow to them. When adjusting your trussrod for upbow, this is called 'adding relief'. Generally, you can leave your bass strung up, and even tuned when adding relief, but you may need to detune the strings along side of the truss rod not so you can turn your allen wrench.

This is where most truss rod nuts are located.

To add relief, you will turn the truss rod one-quarter turn clockwise. Do not adjust your truss rod more than one-half turn at a time, for you could run the risk of overadjusting and warping the neck.

You need one of these, usually supplied with your bass (a 3 mm Allen wrench).

If you look down your neck from the nut, you will know instantly whether your neck has too little or not enough relief. You can also tell by fret buzz. If you're getting buzz in the low notes, say between the 1st and 8th frets, you have too much relief, and also your action will be high to the point that adjusting by the bridge simply isn't enough.

If you are getting buzz in the high frets, past the 12th fret usually, you don't have enough relief. If you have too little relief, this fret buzz will probably occur at almost any point on the neck, and in extreme cases, you may not even produce a note! This is only an extreme case though.

To measure your action once you have found the right amount of relief, you can simply fret at the 12th fret. Look at the neck from the edge, as though you were playing. There should be a small gab between the string and the 8th fret. Not much of a gap, maybe a couple pieces of paper thick, but it should be there.

all the helpful things contributed by low end communications and wintermute

nicatterberry · 09-14-2005, 07:00 PM

Shouldn't this be more indepth? It doesn't really go into explaining the proper ways to adjust and measure and such.

~~irishslappop~~ · 09-14-2005, 07:02 PM

well then write out how you would measure and what ever and ill put it in the original post

bassistuvdoom731 · 09-14-2005, 07:08 PM

pictures would be nice, ive seen basses with ALOT of screws down there

Wintermute · 09-14-2005, 07:13 PM

These are the screws which would adjust the action. Though bridges vary, in virtually all cases the relevant screws are at right angles to the body of the bass.

Remember - after adjusting your action ALWAYS retune your bass.

A low action is better for fast fretwork and tapping, but some people find that if it goes too low, techniques like slapping and popping become harder. A higher action will produce a very clear sound, but may be quite slow and tiring to play.

If you're finding playing tiring on the fingers, particularly if playing fast or tapping, try lowering your action. If you're getting fretbuzz (an atonal buzzing sound when you play a note) try raising it. Experiment, and find your ideal comprimise.

Note - if the truss rod isn't properly adjusted, you may find it very hard to find a comfortable action without fretbuzz.

nicatterberry · 09-14-2005, 07:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wintermute

Note - if the truss rod isn't properly adjusted, you may find it very hard to find a comfortable action without fretbuzz.

I've had my neck as straight as can be for awhile, because I didn't really know better. I could never get my action low enough. Just a few days ago, i loosened the truss rod, and now my action is just how I like it.

Low_End_Communications · 09-14-2005, 07:32 PM

The other factor for action is your truss rod. Your truss rod may have upbow (appearing concave from the side) or backbow (appearing convex from the side). Most fretted basses should be set-up to have a very slight upbow to them. When adjusting your trussrod for upbow, this is called 'adding relief'. Generally, you can leave your bass strung up, and even tuned when adding relief, but you may need to detune the strings along side of the truss rod not so you can turn your allen wrench.

This is where most truss rod nuts are located.

To add relief, you will turn the truss rod one-quarter turn clockwise. Do not adjust your truss rod more than one-half turn at a time, for you could run the risk of overadjusting and warping the neck.

You need one of these, usually supplied with your bass (a 3 mm Allen wrench).

If you look down your neck from the nut, you will know instantly whether your neck has too little or not enough relief. You can also tell by fret buzz. If you're getting buzz in the low notes, say between the 1st and 8th frets, you have too much relief, and also your action will be high to the point that adjusting by the bridge simply isn't enough.

If you are getting buzz in the high frets, past the 12th fret usually, you don't have enough relief. If you have too little relief, this fret buzz will probably occur at almost any point on the neck, and in extreme cases, you may not even produce a note! This is only an extreme case though.

To measure your action once you have found the right amount of relief, you can simply fret at the 12th fret. Look at the neck from the edge, as though you were playing. There should be a small gab between the string and the 8th fret. Not much of a gap, maybe a couple pieces of paper thick, but it should be there.

thelowsoundofbass · 09-14-2005, 07:32 PM

http://www.musicianforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=200103

haha got you all beat

lowsound

c86uk · 01-24-2006, 12:52 PM

On my bass the truss rod allen screw is at the body of the bass and im a little confused which way i need to adjust it.

basicly, im getting buzz on the frets near the top and the strings are real high over the lower down frets.

can anybody help?

White_Summer · 01-24-2006, 01:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thelowsoundofbass

http://www.musicianforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=200103

haha got you all beat

lowsound

what ever happened to BFAG?

rh15951 · 01-24-2006, 04:29 PM

If I wanted to take some tension off the truss rod, how far do I need to turn without messing it up? The open A buzzes on the 1st fret so I need to adjust.

tim_commerfordism · 01-24-2006, 04:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by White_Summer

what ever happened to BFAG?

he went and came back

Then he slyly left again.

Left Shoe · 01-24-2006, 05:02 PM

i think...if someone asks how to set uptheir bass then theanswer should be have a shop set it up for you.

but good guide

09-14-2005, 06:59 PM	#1
~~irishslappop~~ Banned Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Colons all around the world. Posts: 13,505	How Do I Adjust My Action? For the FAQ thread: Action is the term used to define the hieght of any string on your bass in relation to the fingerboard. if you you have to press relativly hard to fret a note then your action is considered too high. if when you play you get alot of fret buzz and your truss rod has been adjusted properly, then your action is too low. to fix either problem is simple. your strings pull tight across saddles that are on your bridge. on most basses, these saddles will have alen screws in which you can make the saddles higher or lower when you turn it. These are the screws which would adjust the action. Though bridges vary, in virtually all cases the relevant screws are at right angles to the body of the bass. Remember - after adjusting your action ALWAYS retune your bass. A low action is better for fast fretwork and tapping, but some people find that if it goes too low, techniques like slapping and popping become harder. A higher action will produce a very clear sound, but may be quite slow and tiring to play. If you're finding playing tiring on the fingers, particularly if playing fast or tapping, try lowering your action. If you're getting fretbuzz (an atonal buzzing sound when you play a note) try raising it. Experiment, and find your ideal comprimise. Note - if the truss rod isn't properly adjusted, you may find it very hard to find a comfortable action without fretbuzz. The other factor for action is your truss rod. Your truss rod may have upbow (appearing concave from the side) or backbow (appearing convex from the side). Most fretted basses should be set-up to have a very slight upbow to them. When adjusting your trussrod for upbow, this is called 'adding relief'. Generally, you can leave your bass strung up, and even tuned when adding relief, but you may need to detune the strings along side of the truss rod not so you can turn your allen wrench. This is where most truss rod nuts are located. To add relief, you will turn the truss rod one-quarter turn clockwise. Do not adjust your truss rod more than one-half turn at a time, for you could run the risk of overadjusting and warping the neck. You need one of these, usually supplied with your bass (a 3 mm Allen wrench). If you look down your neck from the nut, you will know instantly whether your neck has too little or not enough relief. You can also tell by fret buzz. If you're getting buzz in the low notes, say between the 1st and 8th frets, you have too much relief, and also your action will be high to the point that adjusting by the bridge simply isn't enough. If you are getting buzz in the high frets, past the 12th fret usually, you don't have enough relief. If you have too little relief, this fret buzz will probably occur at almost any point on the neck, and in extreme cases, you may not even produce a note! This is only an extreme case though. To measure your action once you have found the right amount of relief, you can simply fret at the 12th fret. Look at the neck from the edge, as though you were playing. There should be a small gab between the string and the 8th fret. Not much of a gap, maybe a couple pieces of paper thick, but it should be there. all the helpful things contributed by low end communications and wintermute Last edited by irishslappop; 09-14-2005 at 07:55 PM.

09-14-2005, 07:32 PM	#7
Low_End_Communications Bassist Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: The U.P. of Michigan Posts: 7,759	Adjusting Action With The Truss Rod The other factor for action is your truss rod. Your truss rod may have upbow (appearing concave from the side) or backbow (appearing convex from the side). Most fretted basses should be set-up to have a very slight upbow to them. When adjusting your trussrod for upbow, this is called 'adding relief'. Generally, you can leave your bass strung up, and even tuned when adding relief, but you may need to detune the strings along side of the truss rod not so you can turn your allen wrench. This is where most truss rod nuts are located. To add relief, you will turn the truss rod one-quarter turn clockwise. Do not adjust your truss rod more than one-half turn at a time, for you could run the risk of overadjusting and warping the neck. You need one of these, usually supplied with your bass (a 3 mm Allen wrench). If you look down your neck from the nut, you will know instantly whether your neck has too little or not enough relief. You can also tell by fret buzz. If you're getting buzz in the low notes, say between the 1st and 8th frets, you have too much relief, and also your action will be high to the point that adjusting by the bridge simply isn't enough. If you are getting buzz in the high frets, past the 12th fret usually, you don't have enough relief. If you have too little relief, this fret buzz will probably occur at almost any point on the neck, and in extreme cases, you may not even produce a note! This is only an extreme case though. To measure your action once you have found the right amount of relief, you can simply fret at the 12th fret. Look at the neck from the edge, as though you were playing. There should be a small gab between the string and the 8th fret. Not much of a gap, maybe a couple pieces of paper thick, but it should be there.

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09-14-2005, 07:00 PM	#2
nicatterberry MX I dig drinking tea Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Oakford, IL Posts: 3,799	Shouldn't this be more indepth? It doesn't really go into explaining the proper ways to adjust and measure and such.

09-14-2005, 07:02 PM	#3
~~irishslappop~~ Banned Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Colons all around the world. Posts: 13,505	well then write out how you would measure and what ever and ill put it in the original post

09-14-2005, 07:08 PM	#4
bassistuvdoom731 10-Fingered Monster Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Maryland, US Posts: 1,299	pictures would be nice, ive seen basses with ALOT of screws down there

09-14-2005, 07:13 PM	#5
Wintermute There Can Be Only One Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Lancaster, UK - Coldest place in the Universe Posts: 13,885	These are the screws which would adjust the action. Though bridges vary, in virtually all cases the relevant screws are at right angles to the body of the bass. Remember - after adjusting your action ALWAYS retune your bass. A low action is better for fast fretwork and tapping, but some people find that if it goes too low, techniques like slapping and popping become harder. A higher action will produce a very clear sound, but may be quite slow and tiring to play. If you're finding playing tiring on the fingers, particularly if playing fast or tapping, try lowering your action. If you're getting fretbuzz (an atonal buzzing sound when you play a note) try raising it. Experiment, and find your ideal comprimise. Note - if the truss rod isn't properly adjusted, you may find it very hard to find a comfortable action without fretbuzz.

09-14-2005, 07:32 PM	#8
thelowsoundofbass I own an fbass Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Canadian Crew Posts: 22,731	http://www.musicianforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=200103 haha got you all beat lowsound

01-24-2006, 12:52 PM	#9
c86uk Registered User Join Date: Dec 2004 Posts: 52	On my bass the truss rod allen screw is at the body of the bass and im a little confused which way i need to adjust it. basicly, im getting buzz on the frets near the top and the strings are real high over the lower down frets. can anybody help?

01-24-2006, 04:29 PM	#11
rh15951 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: England Posts: 7,248	If I wanted to take some tension off the truss rod, how far do I need to turn without messing it up? The open A buzzes on the 1st fret so I need to adjust.

01-24-2006, 05:02 PM	#13
Left Shoe 13 Crosses For Mod '10 Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Boston Posts: 20,554	i think...if someone asks how to set uptheir bass then theanswer should be have a shop set it up for you. but good guide