Smoking Avatar

[Mr. Pickle]

While "jamming" today, i smelt a stanky aroma arise.



Long story short, smoke came rollin' out of the bottom port of my Avatar cab. It smelt just like you'd imagine something would smell when it's burning. The cab has a 2000w handling and my power amp is 1800w (it wasn't maxed) and i was actually pushing it significantly less than i usually do. I plugged it back in a few minutes later and it still seemed to be working fine.


The only thing that i could think of is my power conditioner. A friend came over and he used my power conditioner to plug in his amp (120w) and his 1 spot. The power conditioner has an 1800w max and i believe i still had quite a bit of cushion in that range. Regardless, i don't know how these two could be connected.




k,
me

[naut]

i came into this thread expecting a small 70x70 of some sweet ***.

i leave disappointed.

[Mr. Pickle]

i'm sorry i couldn't leave you with satisfaction, i'll try harder next time.

[Jimbobntnr]

Are all the speakers still working in the cabinet?

I, too came to this thread looking for some eye candy under your screen name.

[Mr. Pickle]

yes, they all seem to be.

could it be a crossed wire or something?

[pitchfork]

If it aint broke don't fix it.
Probably just a dead rat in your cab spontaniously combusting.

[Polyamarous]

Take it to a shop and explain to them.

There are hundred of possible ifs and buts concerning fixing this yourself, but if you don't know whats properly wrong it isn't worth it.

[Jimbobntnr]

yes, they all seem to be.

could it be a crossed wire or something?

Maybe, but if it smoked, then something burned off of it.
If it were mine, or one that someone brought in to me, I would check the impedance on the cab as well as the individual speakers, check for physical damage on the drivers, and then if all that checked out ok - just run it to failure.

[FunkMetalBass]

While "jamming" today, i smelt a stanky aroma arise.



Long story short, smoke came rollin' out of the bottom port of my Avatar cab. It smelt just like you'd imagine something would smell when it's burning. The cab has a 2000w handling and my power amp is 1800w (it wasn't maxed) and i was actually pushing it significantly less than i usually do. I plugged it back in a few minutes later and it still seemed to be working fine.


The only thing that i could think of is my power conditioner. A friend came over and he used my power conditioner to plug in his amp (120w) and his 1 spot. The power conditioner has an 1800w max and i believe i still had quite a bit of cushion in that range. Regardless, i don't know how these two could be connected.




k,
me

But at what resistance do the two have the 1800W and 2000W handling? If there is a significant difference in the amount of resistance, you could have been pushing it too hard.

Still doesn't explain the smoke, but just some food for thought.

[Mr. Pickle]

the avatar is 4 ohm and the 1800w comes from running the power amp on 4 ohm bridge mono.

[FunkMetalBass]

Hmm. No clue. I think Pitchfork is probably right.

[Polyamarous]

Theres a point, why don't you have an avatar, Pickle?

[Radiobass81]

I thought the thread was about the latest Jolie avatar... :p

That sucks, though.

[FU.CKY.OU]

i came into this thread expecting a small 70x70 of some sweet ***.

i leave disappointed.

me too brother, me too..and i'm already lubed up..

you wanna go behind some bushes or something?

[naut]

yeah, then you can explore my bramble patch.

[Mr. Pickle]

well, we had practice again and i started to smell the burning again, so i brought my cab home this week and i'm going to take it apart sometime this week.

[Mr. Pickle]

Theres a point, why don't you have an avatar, Pickle?


she needs a break. she'll be back soon enough.

[naut]

i ate spaghetti again tonight again. think i'll have it sometime on tuesay then again this tuesday.

[Spencer]

the smoke is new a new effect that avatar cabs come with. Pretty cool if you ask me....
Jokeing.

[naut]

rly¿ dats kool!!!

OH KIDDING LOLZ.

...

[Mr. Pickle]

well, i'm probably going to end up taking it apart tomorrow, so will someone please give me a list of what all to check since i'll have it taken apart? I'll check the basics like connections, the wires and i'll check the impedance, but is there anything else?



for checking the impedance on the individual speakers, do i just go positive to positive and ground to ground, and does it matter if the wires are still attached to it? secondly, how do i go about checking the overall impedance of all the speakers?

[Jimbobntnr]

well, i'm probably going to end up taking it apart tomorrow, so will someone please give me a list of what all to check since i'll have it taken apart? I'll check the basics like connections, the wires and i'll check the impedance, but is there anything else?



for checking the impedance on the individual speakers, do i just go positive to positive and ground to ground, and does it matter if the wires are still attached to it? secondly, how do i go about checking the overall impedance of all the speakers?

at least one wire has to be removed from the speaker to check the impedance.

you can check the whole cab by just putting one lead into each of the red and black clips on the back, with all the wires still connected to the speakers.

Sniff the baskets to find out which one sucks. It will probably still stink.

[Mr. Pickle]

so does it matter which wire i take off? and what clips are you talking about on the back? are they on the crossover?

[Jimbobntnr]

nope, doesn't matter which wire. Ohms know neither positive nor negative.

I didn't mean clips on the back, I actually meant the jack. once you pop the cover you can see the two wires attached to it. You don't have to disconnect these to get the full cab impedance.

[pitchfork]

Wires in cabs are usually soldered not clipped, the clips tend to come loose after a while.

[Mr. Pickle]

UPDATE

alright, so i took my cab apart and came upon a few discoveries. three of the four speakers seem to be running around the right resistance, but it is kind of hard to tell because it jumps around quite a bit. one of the speakers just reads overload the whole time (you can remove both of the wires to test impedance, correct?)

when we practiced yesterday, i took the grill off of my cab. all of the speakers did seem to be working fine, but the one that is reading overload right now did feel (as in touch) a little weaker yesterday when i was playing through it, but i just thought maybe i was just imagining it. also, the actual cone (when not playing through it) did feel a little more loose i guess. (i could/can push the cone in and out easier than the other ones) there is also something broken or something inside that i can hear moving around when i shake it. i don't know if the other speakers had it because i didn't check.

the inside doesn't smell as bad as it did, but it seems to be most noticeable where the the pot for the horn adjustment is, i don't know if this is just coincidence or what.


one other thing, while i was putting one of the speakers back in, i ended up poking a tiny hole in the cone. will this be anything i should worry about?

[Jimbobntnr]

the one that is reading overload may be shot, and just moving from the air of the other three.

Is the hole in the dust cover? the little round thing in the center of the front?


"the inside doesn't smell as bad as it did, but it seems to be most noticeable where the the pot for the horn adjustment is, i don't know if this is just coincidence or what. "

Probably not a coincidence. How did the cab ohm out?

[Mr. Pickle]

the dust cover is just the the circle the doesn't move correct? if so, no, it's in the part that flexes.


as far as checking the total cab impedance, i'm still a bit confused. i'm checking it at the speakon input, which i'm assuming eventually connects up to everything, because there are quite a few wires going to the crossover. assuming this is correct, it is at a steady 4.7-4.8 ohms. why do the speakers jump around so much and doing the whole cab doesn't?

[Mr. Pickle]

i tested the speaker on my practice amp (8 ohm) and it stayed at a constant 7.4-5 ohm, so why do the speakers in my cab jump from 12 to 18 and everything in between?

[Jimbobntnr]

i tested the speaker on my practice amp (8 ohm) and it stayed at a constant 7.4-5 ohm, so why do the speakers in my cab jump from 12 to 18 and everything in between?
That could happen if there's not a solid connection between the leads and the speaker terminal or if the speakers are movng at all when you check them.

[Jimbobntnr]

check for something like this around you:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=340-076 to cover the hole in the cone.

[Mr. Pickle]

if i could rep you more, i would.

[Jimbobntnr]

oh, thanks for the rep!

[Mr. Pickle]

Wires in cabs are usually soldered not clipped, the clips tend to come loose after a while.


my cab and two other amps all use clips, btw.

[NavyBass]

Don't get the wattage rating on the power conditioner confused with the output wattage rating of the head. They are 2 different things.

The wattage rating on the power conditioner is a measurement of electrical power, whereas the output wattage rating on the amp is power output.

Look above the power cord on the amp there should be something that says wattage. That is the average power consumption of the amp.

Now, if your speaker cab was smoking, that would have nothing to do with the power conditioner.

[NavyBass]

The speaker that reads overload is completely shot. It has an open voice coil. There's nothing you could do with it except getting a new voice coil put on it. THat would be almost as expensive as going out and getting a new speaker.

[Mr. Pickle]

alright thanks.


is there any way that the tweeter l-pad burning up can be connected to the speaker blowing, because i can really see how there could be, but it seems like an odd coincidence?

[Jimbobntnr]

alright thanks.


is there any way that the tweeter l-pad burning up can be connected to the speaker blowing, because i can really see how there could be, but it seems like an odd coincidence?

Seems like Kirchoff's law could come into play here. So, yes.

[Mr. Pickle]

well, it seems as if i'm going to have to get the eminence neo speaker for a replacement. i'm not too wild about this, because i'll have to basically cut my cabs handling in half.

i know this wouldn't be an ideal situation, but if i can find a 10" 16 ohm speaker with a higher rating, would pretty much anything work. (assuming it has the right connections and everything) would there be response issues or anything?

[Mr. Pickle]

bump

[Jimbobntnr]

yeah, it'll work. Ideally you would want to match the speaker specs as closely as possibly ie. sensitivity and freq response.

were it me and I wasn't trying to keep from being flamed for inaccuracies, I would just match the impedance and call it a day.

[Mr. Pickle]

any idea, who makes some 16 ohm 10" speakers that are over 250w rms? that's the next issue, i can't seem to find any.

[Jimbobntnr]

http://www.usspeaker.com/homepage.htm

Google speaker components drivers and there are other places like this. DFS sales would do it to, but don't mention my name if you get ahold of them. Where are you located?

[Mr. Pickle]

i'm in minnesota

[Jimbobntnr]

http://www.usspeaker.com/Delta-10B-1.htm
sens = 99db. That's a decent one, but it's hard to tell what avatar used when they put your cab together. Did you get a number off of that driver?

[Mr. Pickle]

no, there isn't really anything on it that helps.



EDIT: i mean, the speaker is an eminence kappa pro, but that's basically all it says

[Mr. Pickle]

Frequency Response:
63Hz - 3.7kHz


is this a normal range for a bass speaker? it seems fairly high. (as in the 63hz)

[Jimbobntnr]

Yeah, that's a bit off.
Shop around on it and see if you can get one that has more of a flat line instead of this curve:
http://www.usspeaker.com/delta%2010%20graph.gif

[Mr. Pickle]

well, i was looking at the kappa pro on the website (8 ohm) and assuming it's basically the same as the older 16 ohm version, it seems to have a similar curve.

[Jimbobntnr]

This is from the GK site:
410RBH Specifications
IMPEDANCE:
Available as 8 ohms or 4 ohms
POWER RATING:
800 Watts
WOOFER:
4xGK-Paragon 10B200-32 - Cast Frame, 10", 200W, 32 or 16 ohms High Presence Voice Coil
TWEETER:
GK-Paragon 5H50-8
FREQUENCY RESPONSE:
50Hz to 19kHz
SENSITIVITY:
103dB


but, what we're looking at is a cabinet spec. the construction of the cabinet will (hopefully) have a lot to do with the overall specs. Tuning a cabinet helps the freq response flatten out as well as increase the sensitivity.

again, I would just toss a 16 ohmer in there, but to be sure contact avatar and see what they recommend.

[Mr. Pickle]

i did numerous times. all dave seems to want me to do is the 10" neo, but that would bring my cab handling down by half which i'm not too excited about.



thanks jonly

[Mr. Pickle]

i finally got the speaker delivered today. i put it in and whatnot. by checking at the - and + of the speakon input, i'm getting a pretty constant reading of 7.0 ohms... what now?