Bass Dr.

[xxxwookie]

If you want a bass with good slap tone and active circuitry I'd strongly recommend looking at some of the Yamaha basses. High quality basses for low prices.

Anyway. My friend gave me a bass about a year ago asking if I could fix it for him. Don't ask me how but the neck is cracked just under the head. he's tried using wood filler to fix it but that's not worked (And it's made a mess which is a pain in the arse for me). I'm considering putting some new pickups in this thing and maybe giving it a bit of a paint job, but I need to fix the neck. The crack doesn't seem to have caused any serious structural problems and it can still hold the strings at full tension, however, it'd be nice to fix it. I don't want to keep this thing so I'm looking to sell it on after I've painted it.

Any recommendations on fixing a broken neck?
Cheers

[JoeDaddio]

XXXWookie... might want to try some Gorilla glue (http://www.duluthtrading.com/store/list.asp?uid=2004082806562796&src=T22GOOG45&HKW=3XGGLU&z=n). VERY strong stuff, easy to work with, but if you're dealing with a tiny crack, I don't know how messy it would be. You would also have to find some way to clamp the crack together, which would probably be the toughest part. Wood expands and contracts with moisture and heat, which wood filler won't do, which is why it cracked out and did nothing. If you think the body is worth it, you may just want to get a new neck. Or, just play it till it decides to snap. That could always make for a cool liver preformance :D



joe

[xxxwookie]

I was in the DIY store earlier (Getting some paint for a different thing) and I saw some Super epoxy which claims to be strong enough to lift a 2 ton car. Think that oughta do but a tiny amount is about £7. *Looks for it cheaper on the net* Clamping shouldn't be a problem. I have vices and clamps galore while I'm at home.

Cheers Joe

[Jim Hull]

Well, I snapped my neck just under the head. Not just cracked it, but snapped in two! I’m not sure how to fix it. I don’t think glue will be able to hold the tension put on it. What do you think?

[xxxwookie]

Well, if this epoxy/super epoxy is as strong as it's supposed to be, it should be able to held the heck together. If you place epoxy on either side, push the neck and head togetherin the right position and then clamp them until the epoxy has set then it should be fine

[Deathw1sh]

hey everybody, I have been toying around with my bass today, and upon checking my intonation, I found that my E string's is sharp. That is, when the open E was perfect, the 12th fret E was ~80 cents sharp.

So, I adjusted the saddle and found that tightening the screw made the 12th fret even more sharp, so I started loosening it, but the screw was coming out of the back of the bridge before the fretted E was natural. Here's a pic, since you guys/girls seem to love those so much.
http://img15.exs.cx/img15/3898/intonation.jpg

As you can see, the fretted E is still pretty sharp, while the screw is practically falling out of the bridge. can anybody help? :upset:

[morpcat]

Can you push thethe screw back into the bridge? If you push the screw forward, it should move the saddle forward as well.

[Deathw1sh]

nope... can't budge it with my fingers

[morpcat]

Hmm, the screw normally only starts coming out the back when the saddle has moved forwards to its maximum position, so if the saddle isn't right on the edge of the bridge you should be able to jiggle the whole thing forward.

Otherwise, screw it back together, take off the string, leave everything for 15 minutes, and then restring it and try set the intonation again, sometimes all the strings need is a little tension re-adjustment. Also make sure the string is properly wound down the peg at the headstock.

[Deathw1sh]

ehh its all properly wound.. the saddles were all angled toward the e string side, so the e string saddle was squeezed up against the end of the bridge, so i took out all the saddles and the strings, and the e string saddle went 'sproing' and landed a few inches away.
It turns out that the screw was trying to move the saddle when i turned it, but since the saddle wasn't moving much due to friction, it stored up kinetic energy that whole time instead of changing my intonation. So I tried to put em back in at a slightly different angle (they pretty much only have one angle to go in), and the e string saddle isn't *quite* as squished now, at least now it moves when I turn the screw. :)

Oh well, as long as I can set my intonation, I can live with my saddles leaned a little one way...

[tunafish_scumbag]

Have you tried using someone elses cable with your bass and your cable with someone else's guitar? It may help you to pin point which is the problem, the cable or the bass jack! If it's the cable, You may want to replace it, if it's the input jack on your bass, it's not too expensive to replace that

If its the cable, and you have the know how, you can always cut open the cable at the part this is ruined, and reattach the two pieces. While this isn't worth doing on a little 5 foot cable, if you have an expensive 20-30 footer, it can really save you money.

[morpcat]

If its the cable, and you have the know how, you can always cut open the cable at the part this is ruined, and reattach the two pieces. While this isn't worth doing on a little 5 foot cable, if you have an expensive 20-30 footer, it can really save you money.

First of all, that question is long gone. Well, long enough gone. Second of all, if you have an expensive 20-30 footer they usually come with a lifetime waranty.

EDIT: wtf?? That's page 1 material you were answering there... that's from 2002!

[Jake#1]

hey guys,
I got my new standard fretless jazz bass the other day,and im really pleased with it. The pickups are great and the bass in general is really good. But the tension on the G string is so tight, I can barely bend any note on it! I've taken it off and put it back on again, but its the same. Can i fix this myself, or do i have to bring it to a tech? Thanks

[Bass+Fingers+Amp=Groove]

maby its over tuned? it could be getting pinched in the nut and string tree. if its set up with flatwounds it will take some getting used to the tension. it shoudnt be that tight, i can bend my flatwounds with ease. also check the bass saddles and intonation.

[morpcat]

Yea an extreme saddle position could affect the tension a little. The main problem is probably that you aren't used to that gauge or type of string. If it's really really bad, make sure you didn't tune up an octave by mistake.. I've only seen that happen on guitar though.

[amzharpyro]

i got a few problems that i need answers to. first my knobs are ****ed up. the tone knob is loose. when i pull it, theres the knob with a metal stick should i call it. the stick goes into the body of it. in the hole that is left, theres a thread for the nut thats there and a washer. so i opened up the back to take a look at whats wrong but still nothing. should change it? i should mention my bass is a b.c. rich warlock just incase.

another question is. i would like to change the fingerboard of my bass cause the frets are all rusty and algae-y and the wood has tons for chips. how would i go about removing it. do i just yank it off from the neck or is there a safer way? i heard i need to heat it up or something

[ocdrumandbass]

i have no idea how to remove your fingerboard, but maybe you could consider defretting it? there are a few tutorials around on how to do that, and a lot of people do it with their first bass. you can use wood filler to plug the gaps. just an idea...

[xxxwookie]

This is why I constantly go on about cleaning and maintaining your gear!!! Go to my thread now!!! :p

If the fretboard is really that bad I'd recommend you go to a professional to get it done or you may end up buying a new neck. If it's just the frets you can get those replaced much more cheaply.

[Jim Hull2]

Yep... it always pays to be clean!

[amzharpyro]

yeah but i'm hoping to remove it and just buy another fingerboard and do it myself.
never mind i found the site http://projectguitar.com/tut/removal.htm

[morpcat]

i got a few problems that i need answers to. first my knobs are ****ed up. the tone knob is loose. when i pull it, theres the knob with a metal stick should i call it. the stick goes into the body of it. in the hole that is left, theres a thread for the nut thats there and a washer. so i opened up the back to take a look at whats wrong but still nothing. should change it? i should mention my bass is a b.c. rich warlock just incase.

another question is. i would like to change the fingerboard of my bass cause the frets are all rusty and algae-y and the wood has tons for chips. how would i go about removing it. do i just yank it off from the neck or is there a safer way? i heard i need to heat it up or something

The knob part you pulled off is entirely aesthetic. I had the same problem with two of my knobs my Ibanez GSR200, and solved it with sticky stuff.
First of all I chucked a big lump of UHU into the knob and then slid it back on, and this held for about a month. Strong super glue left to set properly will hold for a much longer time. They've managed to stay on for at least the past 6 months by loosely wrapping the "metal stick" with sticky tape and then squashing the knob onto it. It makes the whole threading area more crowded and creates a lot of friction.

[xxxwookie]

yeah but i'm hoping to remove it and just buy another fingerboard and do it myself.
never mind i found the site http://projectguitar.com/tut/removal.htm
Fair enough. If you're American/Canadian I'd recommend WWW.Warmoth.com as everyone here seems to love it for parts/customisations.

As for the knob, you could get new knobs if you like, the teeth that keep it attached have probably worn a littl from use. You could get a bit of blu tack (I don't know what they call it in the states) but it's sticky stuff you usually use for putting posters on walls... Any idea what I mean? My mates have used that in the past.

[amzharpyro]

ok then i know where to get the parts for everything but now i cant remove my neck!
i opened up the screws at the end of the neck thats connected to the body but i think its guled togeter or something. can someone help?

[morpcat]

The neck may be stuck in with a layer of wood called a tongue, which may well be glued. This would make your neck a sort of bolt-on/set-neck hybrid :confused:
I haven't removed a neck yet, so I can't really help, but if you really have problems, email the manufacturer. Don't worry about voiding the warranty or anything, because you were never going to use it.

[amzharpyro]

i think i'll do it at the shop that distibute the bc rich brand

[xxxwookie]

always the best way

If you're ever unsure of doing anything to a bass, get a professional to do it. If they **** up you're covered!

[cameo]

Hey People
Im looking at a Yamaha RBX270 or RBX370
can anyone give me some ups and downs about this basses
thanks guys

[ocdrumandbass]

If you can get the 370, get that. I had a 270 (or maybe it was a 250? i dont remember) and it was great to learn on, but you should go with the better equipment always.

[morpcat]

The models aren't really in production anymore. The 270 has been split into the J, L and F models, and the 370 was replaced by the upgrades of the 270 and the 374/375 series.

The actual difference between a 270 and a 370 is that the 370 has active electronics with a 2-band eq, but the 270 just has a tone knob.

Oh, and the 260 was pretty much renamed to 170.

[musky]

I got a yamaha RGX270, its all going well, apart from when i try and play on any of the frets in the second octave, they all seem to buzz no matter how hard i hold them down. Is this a problem with the truss rod?

[xxxwookie]

It could be a number of things.
It could be that your neck is slightly warped and the truss rod needs adjusting.
I don't think it's because the action is low, I would've thought that may be more of a problem if you fret further up then neck
Could be that the frets are beginning to wear, it happens

[morpcat]

Yea the neck is probably warped so that although the action over the first octave is fine, the second octave has terrible action. It's going to be a little too high to play on until you straighten the neck out, but as you play around this area more and more, it gets easier.

[musky]

ive not had it very long (about a month), so i doubt its the frets wearing.
if its the truss rod, i dont know what the **** im doing so do you reckon the guitar shop i bought it from would fix it up for me. i have 6 months free repair, would it come under that?

[ocdrumandbass]

yes.

[morpcat]

Concur.
Ask them to do a 'setup'

[Jamie]

While putting some laquer (walnut colour) on my fretboard i accidently got some on one of the tuning pegs. how do i get it off? (its a squier p-bass)

[alk3rules]

you would probly need to scrape it off. try using a piece of fine sandpaper.

[morpcat]

Paint thinner should do it, try not to get it elsewhere though.

[Jim Hull]

go with paint thinner like morp suggested. sandpaper wouldnt do the pegs too good!

[Jim Hull]

Ok, I have a problem. I picked up my bass just now and started to play. I am getting a horrible distorted sound from the amp and the volume constantly fluctuates. I think it may be a loose wire of some kind in the bass because I plugged my keyboard into the amp and it was fine. I have not had a chance to look at the wiring yet and let us face it... I am no electrician! Any other thoughts?

[Mitchell Royce]

Sounds as if an active bass is dying from battery failure. If it's active it might be just that, if not then I'm sorry as I can't help you past your "loose wire" hypothesis.

[Wintermute]

I got something like that when my lead was failing, so check that before you get the soldering iron out.

[morpcat]

I've seen similar from failing batteries, loose wires, and really damaged pots. Check for loose wires, change the battery, change the cable, and then get the pots checked out.

[jaseonbase]

I feel like a ****ing dumbass BUT
i was taking my knobs off just becos i could and i ****ed up big.
When you take my knob off theres like another metal knob under it that you attach your knob too. (that makes no sense) but when i took my knob off it took the metal one with it it won't screw back in and be knob like. I can actually get it in to stay for appearance but as soon as i go to turn it it just falls out.

if someone understands my problem i'd appreciate help.

[Wintermute]

The actual axle came out as well as the knob?


You need a new full switch. You can get one from www.warmoth.com, I think, among other places. Talk to your local music shop, they should be able to fit it for you, and may be able to supply the parts too.

[morpcat]

Depending on the exact construction of the pot it may be fixable, but they aren't expensive and are relatively easy to install/get installed, so it's worthwhile just heading down to your shop and getting a new on as Wintermute said. You might even like to get all of them replaced, to reduce noise and such, but that's pretty much pointless unless you have very good quality gear.

[Zero0Bass]

hey, my amp is having some trouble lately; whenever i put the gain and vol to about 2/3 full, any sustained open string note (regardless of how softly played it is) resonates, slowly grows louder, and then feedbacks like a sonofabitch. additionally, there are occasional crackle sounds on anything above 1/4 gain 1/4 volume. advice?

[morpcat]

The crackling is just from overuse of the amp, nothing to worry about, but it will get worse. You might have a a fold in the speaker cone, or just a degrading speaker. As for the feedback, it's pretty normal, but isn't usually that much of a problem. The only real way to stop it would be to purchase a limiter, which aren't at all expensive. That will just prevent the signal from getting too loud, which is healthy for your amp and also stops feedback.

[cramboli]

Is this safe???? I have 2 very very old Fisher speakers the kind with the clips in the back for the wiring and I was wandering if it was safe that I tinkered around with the wires leading to the speaker cone and attached some extra wires to the Fisher speakers it sound great and has an awsome bassy effect seeing as though the amp is a 10" guitar amp but im not to sure on the saftey thing if its safe cool if not crap.

[morpcat]

Well, I can't tell you without knowing the power and impedance of the speakers and amp, and also what the speakers were made for.
They aren't going to explode and kill you, so I guess they are safe yes.

[Jim Hull]

Ok, I have a problem. I picked up my bass just now and started to play. I am getting a horrible distorted sound from the amp and the volume constantly fluctuates. I think it may be a loose wire of some kind in the bass because I plugged my keyboard into the amp and it was fine. I have not had a chance to look at the wiring yet and let us face it... I am no electrician! Any other thoughts?

Just to let you all know, it was caused by dieing batteries

[cramboli]

Well, I can't tell you without knowing the power and impedance of the speakers and amp, and also what the speakers were made for.
They aren't going to explode and kill you, so I guess they are safe yes.
there both 110 watts and tey both sound friggen awsome and all the powers coming from the amp plug so yeah.

[newbie2607]

this isn't really anything about my bass, but what did Jaco Pastorius do to his? :confused: I know it didn't look like that when he bought it.

[Riouken]

this isn't really anything about my bass, but what did Jaco Pastorius do to his? :confused: I know it didn't look like that when he bought it.

It is a fretless bass.

You can buy fretless basses or defret them yourself.

[newbie2607]

i know it's fretless. In fact I'm thinkin about defretting my bass but did he like rip off his pickguard or something?

[Grave Base]

alright i just got a new Yamaha RBX-375 (5-string) for christmas and im having problems playing........it does seem to work with my korg tuner or my fender frontman 25B amp......any help here.....

also doesnt work with my pignose mini amp :mad:

[morpcat]

i know it's fretless. In fact I'm thinkin about defretting my bass but did he like rip off his pickguard or something?

Yes, he removed his pickgaurd. I've heard he moved his bridge a little further back too. He also coated his fretboard with marine epoxy.

[morpcat]

alright i just got a new Yamaha RBX-375 (5-string) for christmas and im having problems playing........it does seem to work with my korg tuner or my fender frontman 25B amp......any help here.....

also doesnt work with my pignose mini amp :mad:

When you say it does I assume you mean it doesn't. Try this: put a battery in it.

[ocdrumandbass]

Well, I can't tell you without knowing the power and impedance of the speakers and amp, and also what the speakers were made for.
They aren't going to explode and kill you, so I guess they are safe yes.

if you plug it into the wall, it's generally not safe if you dont know what your doing.

[Grave Base]

When you say it does I assume you mean it doesn't. Try this: put a battery in it.

ya.......sending it back because it came with a bit off the side :rolleyes:

[morpcat]

if you plug it into the wall, it's generally not safe if you dont know what your doing.

:confused: :confused: Huh what wall?

[ocdrumandbass]

i mean, electricity out of the wall is very dangerous. (power point)


try sticking a paperclip into one and see what happens!

[morpcat]

i mean, electricity out of the wall is very dangerous. (power point)


try sticking a paperclip into one and see what happens!

Yeah but the speakers aren't plugged into the wall :amaze:

[bastard son of boris karloff]

my strings keep stickin 2 my pickups (there brand new bill lawrence custom made) pls hlp!

[morpcat]

Magnets within pickups can be strong enough to make your strings stick yes. Either clean up your technique (don't dig so deep), or lower you pickups by tightening the screws either side of them.

[KompressR]

I break alotta strings right on my bridge, and i was wondering if this could be a bridge setup problem? I was gonna try messing with the bridge height n such but i don't wanna mess up the intonation or have to adjust my pickups if i don't have to.

[Panda Licker]

I break alotta strings right on my bridge, and i was wondering if this could be a bridge setup problem? I was gonna try messing with the bridge height n such but i don't wanna mess up the intonation or have to adjust my pickups if i don't have to.
More likely that there is a spur on your saddle

Check your saddles, see if there is any piece of metal sticking up. If there is, take it to a shop and have them sand it down

[KompressR]

im assuming the saddle is where the string rests on the bridge, so correct me if im wrong, but i check it out and it seems pretty smooth.

[morpcat]

If your saddles are set really, really, high, and really close the back of the bridge, you are going to be putting a lot of tension on the strings at those points. However, as was said, it's usually a rough saddle that will rub and wear down the string. Could also be the brand of strings you are using.

If the problem persists, buy lighter gauge strings, lower your action, and take a lot of care when stringing up.

[ocdrumandbass]

Yeah but the speakers aren't plugged into the wall :amaze:

wall-> amp -> speakers

[morpcat]

wall-> amp -> speakers

Open the amp and see the transformer.

[ocdrumandbass]

i wont argue about this anymore.

[jaseonbase]

okay...i honestly can't be bothered reading this whole thread to see if somebody has the same problem as me.... SO

i got a new ibanes srx300tr i've had it for a few weeks and my g string keeps rattling when i play on it... now u have to understand this is not ur normal rattling and it doesnt matter what tuning i'm in it still ****en rattles. i new it was bad when i started to avoid playing on that string... it sounds weird but a rattle or weird twangy sound is all i can describe it as. Its not the string cos i've changed it so i was wondering if anybody else has had this same problem and can help.

jaseonbase

[Az_Holl]

If youve got an adjustable bridge you can heighten it. My d string was dong the same thing and heightning it fixed it

[morpcat]

okay...i honestly can't be bothered reading this whole thread to see if somebody has the same problem as me.... SO

i got a new ibanes srx300tr i've had it for a few weeks and my g string keeps rattling when i play on it... now u have to understand this is not ur normal rattling and it doesnt matter what tuning i'm in it still ****en rattles. i new it was bad when i started to avoid playing on that string... it sounds weird but a rattle or weird twangy sound is all i can describe it as. Its not the string cos i've changed it so i was wondering if anybody else has had this same problem and can help.

jaseonbase

The action on that string is set too low. You should have been provided with the necessary tools for adjusting the bridge when you bought the bass, and if it's Ibanez it should also come with a quick guide on adjusting the action. Basically you have to raise the g-strings saddle, which is the part of the bridge it rests on. Doing this will move the g-string away from the fretboard and prevent it buzzing.

If this has no effect then you are likely to have uneven frets or a badly carved nut. In either case, you need to take it to a shop.

Don't go adjusting the truss rod (in case you thought that might help), because if the rattling only occurs on the g-string, neck bowing cannot be at fault, as this would make all the strings rattle.

Hope that's ok :thumb:

[jaseonbase]

thanks buddy

[morpcat]

A bump to ensure view of this fantastic resource! :upset:

[lou_sculi]

ive broke my old bass about 6 months ago and the neck came off so i decided to glue it back together with wood glue but it wouldnt hold so then i screwed it together which seemed to work fine untill the day came when it fell and broke again reveeling the trust rod. nasty!!!!
any way i decided to get a new bass so i went on to boonnersmusic and after weeks of waiting they sent me my eagerly anticipated yamaha rbx374! to my horror i found all the Knobs are severly malfunctioning in fact they dont even work!!!!!
when i plug it into the amp their no real sound what so ever so i decided to open her up!
I found that some of the wires had not been wired up! what should i do? should i send it back and be forced to wait for ages for tham to repair it or try to fix it myself? i live in N.Ireland and the company is in England, and they had to back order it from yamaha!
I dont know please help!

[morpcat]

Don't worry, most shops can repair or rewire electronics for you no problem. I'm getting it done on my Spector in a little while, which has a very similar electronics set up to your Yamaha. It doesn't matter that you didn't buy it at the shop, just explain (nicely) your situation to them, and say you're prepared to pay a little. It shouldn't take them more than hour so you can look around the store while they do it.

Rewiring it yourself would be difficult but not impossible. You would have to have good soldering skills, and a knowledge of how it's wired though. The reason I'm getting mine rewired is because I've mucked about with it too much and too often, and I want it redone properly and neatly.

[lou_sculi]

you see the thing is ive got a waranty on it, but cant be bothered waiting so long again for them to deal with it! im sure i could try to soldier it but im worried that ill lose the warranty? do you think i would lose the warranty if i decided to fitter about with it?

[lou_sculi]

Oh sorry i forgot to mention that i live across the water from the company so it would not be very convienant for me to travel across plus it would cost a bomb!
any suggestions?

[morpcat]

You probably would void the warranty on it if you did it by yourself. Once again, getting a shop to do it won't cost very much, and it's probably worth it if the wait will be that long..

[lou_sculi]

Thanks for your help i tink ill just phone the company and complain to them for selling me a wonky bass, and see what they say?
Mayby they may have a place in northern ireland that would do it? oh well!! hopefully so?

[kilian]

6 months old? We here in the netherlands have a law I thought that everything must work for one year? Well at least ALL the products have 'one year warranty' on it.

:thumb:

[Man.or.Astro-Man]

c'mon man thats not how you spell wookie.Your sposed to spell it Wookiee thats how its spelled on star wars.

[burntgorilla]

I noticed on the back of the neck on my Ibanez a weird, darker patch. It has a slightly different texture, it's almost as if it's absorbed a bit of water, but it's been there for months. It extends the length of several frets, but is only on one side of the neck. It's not too big, but it is weird. If it was just moisture, surely it would have dried out by now?

[morpcat]

I noticed on the back of the neck on my Ibanez a weird, darker patch. It has a slightly different texture, it's almost as if it's absorbed a bit of water, but it's been there for months. It extends the length of several frets, but is only on one side of the neck. It's not too big, but it is weird. If it was just moisture, surely it would have dried out by now?

Has it been there since you bought the bass? If it has always been there, then it's just part of the wood, and nothing to worry about.

If it's recently appeared, then it is most likely moisture as you said. Because it's not too large an area, your bass shouldn't be affected in any way, so don't worry. Moisture can cause some very long-lasting changes in wood colour. Because the neck wood is probably very light coloured (typically maple), any small colour change is qutie distinct. The moisture can stay in the wood for many months, but it's not going to do anything particularly bad to it in the near future.

[morpcat]

Another bump to ensure view of this fantastic resource! :upset:

[Joelbassman]

Hey my lead has come off at the ends is there anyway to connect the the wires back up?

[morpcat]

You can solder them back on if you have solder and a soldering iron. But you'll need to know which place to solder at. Also, you'll probably make a very noisey cable and it won't last very long. It's best just to buy a cable with a lifetime guarantee such as Planet Waves.

[Kibuddy]

I'm having a bit of an intonation problem. Every note on my bass is sharp from the 12th fret up (well, that's all I can measure with my tuner, anyways), yet the string length is already as long as my bridge will allow. I'm 95% sure that I'm using the right length strings (I've got a 34" scale bass, in case you wanted to know). I'm not quite sure what to do. Any ideas? *hopes ther isn't a blatantly obvious solution*

[morpcat]

Most string that work on 34" scale basses are also designed to work on basses up to 36" inches, because it saves the string manufacturers a lot of hassle. If your bridge is already maxed out and your intonation is still way off, it's worth setting your bridge entirely backwards from you current setting, and seeing if you can get any closer by starting over. Other than that, try a different brand of strings, or a different gauge.

[Kibuddy]

Most string that work on 34" scale basses are also designed to work on basses up to 36" inches, because it saves the string manufacturers a lot of hassle. If your bridge is already maxed out and your intonation is still way off, it's worth setting your bridge entirely backwards from you current setting, and seeing if you can get any closer by starting over. Other than that, try a different brand of strings, or a different gauge.

I wouldn't be suprised if it was a problem with the bridge. It's a crappy bass, so I guess I shouldn't expect perfect intonation from it. This is my second different gauge, so I'm guessing it's not the strings.

Anyways, thanks for the help!

[morpcat]

You can always unscrew and move the bridge around.

[masterbasser]

hi......errrm. this isnt a question about equipment but i was wonderin if ne1 has a really cul funky slap bass line thats a challenge but not REALLY hard. PLz tell me if u do or if theres a better place to ask this question i wud like 2 no.

bev.

[crazy_bassist_chick]

I have a problem...I use a Tanglewood Rebel 4K bass with a Fender California lead, along with a Peavey Firebass 700 (three block- two speakers plus the controls). When I plug in the amp makes a buzzing noise till I switch it off, and a couple of times I've touch the strings and gotten a electric shock. Is this cause of my bass or the amp? What can I do about it?

[masterbasser]

hey crazy bassist chick, my bass at the moment has a loose tone knob, when i plug it into my amp it makes a buzzing noise because its loose. Have you checked to see all the knobs are alright. My amp is only a small 15g fender practice amp though so its probably different. Ive never had an electric shock though!

hope ive been a help,

bev

p.s.
does anybody know how to fix a knob on a squier precision bass?

[crazy_bassist_chick]

yeah, the knobs are fine, they all work like they should

[morpcat]

Ok, from what I know, the bass is a fully passive P/J with two volumes and one tone knob. Correct? If it's entirely passive (no battery), then the shock has to be coming from your amp.

I don't know where you live, but I'm guessing that your power plug for the amp is a two-pin. If I'm right, you don't have a ground or earth pin. There is likely to be a short inside the amp, which can cause problems from humming to clicking to shocking.

To see the extent of your problems, plug in and turn your tone knob on the bass to full. There will probably be a distinct hum, much louder than you would like. When you touch the strings, there will probably be a click sound, and the hum will go away.

If you want it fixed, you'll need to have your amplifier (just the head) opened and checked out, or you could try a different socket in the wall, sometimes it can be the electricity of the house you're in that causes the problem, so try moving your amp around.

[Thonk]

Hello,
I just got back from the music store and bought a P Bass replacement nut. Mine broke today. So, how do I go about applicating the nut onto my bass and how do I get my old one out? Thanks a lot in advance.

[morpcat]

I think all replacement nuts come 'smooth', that is they don't have any slots for the strings. If you want the nut to work well, fit your string gauge, and not have different heights for each string, you'll need a professional to file it for you. They can also remove the nut and glue on the new one for you.

It's not a difficult or uncommon process, and basses have the advantage of only having 4 strings, so it shouldn't cost much. Just go down to your local shop and ask.

[Thonk]

I think all replacement nuts come 'smooth', that is they don't have any slots for the strings. If you want the nut to work well, fit your string gauge, and not have different heights for each string, you'll need a professional to file it for you. They can also remove the nut and glue on the new one for you.

It's not a difficult or uncommon process, and basses have the advantage of only having 4 strings, so it shouldn't cost much. Just go down to your local shop and ask.
Thanks Morpcat. I got it done. The nut was already cut so it was an easy process. I got an aul and a hammer and pounded the aul in and pulled the old, broken nut out. Then I just hammered in the new nut.

[otacon3]

when ever i play a high note (usally an F on the G string) my amp makes a werid buzzing noise. Im pretty sure thats its not fret buzz so any one got any ideas on whats up with my amp?

[FenderJazz]

when ever i play a high note (usally an F on the G string) my amp makes a werid buzzing noise. Im pretty sure thats its not fret buzz so any one got any ideas on whats up with my amp?

Well, the plain truth is that your amp might suck. Its normal for amps (even some that arent that bad) to have buzzing sounds or get muddy when they are cranked all the way up. The amp starts using most of the power for the volume and ruines the tone, or something like that. Try playing your amp on 9 or 8 instead of 10.

[FenderJazz]

Another thing, a lot of people have been asking about Input Jacks. There is a flat little metal "thing" inside input jacks that holds the cable 'head' (is that the correct term?) in there. After a while, that little part might loosen, and the cable wont hold in place too well anymore. When it is allowed to wobble, the connection between the cables and the input jack is broken temporarily, thus causing quick losses of sound. If your input jack is old and ****ty, buy a new one. If not, then open up you bass, and with your finger, bend that little metal part towards where the cable will be. This will cause more tension on the cable head, and it will be held in place properly. If you open up your bass and put the cable in while holding the input jack in your hand, youll understand.

Im gonna start writting my name here:
Rafa

[morpcat]

Actually, if the buzzing comes more from a specific note, then it most likely to be the structure of the amp buzzing. This happens when a standing wave is created within the amp, or in the area around the amp. It can't really be helped except by changing the amp's environment (cushions, different areas of the room etc)

[cameo]

Hey All :wave:
Gotta question I need answering...
I'm thinking of changing my bridge pickups from Ibanez DXJ soapbars, to some Fender Jazz bass (bridge) pickups, is there any difference in size of these 2 pickups? And how do I change them over?
Thanks heaps!
Cam

[cameo]

By the way Morpcat, I dig your picture mate!
Cam

[ocdrumandbass]

wont fit. screws are in the wrong places also.

[pbass]

I noticed you guys were talking about a replacement nut before and I was wondering, is there a good online store to buy them at? I've been looking for one for a year :confused: lol. Thanks.

[nathan123]

What resistances should my volume and tone pots be? I have an Aria STB series bass which needs new pots and a new string guide - which type of string guide would be best?

[morpcat]

500K pots are usually best, it's a passive right? I know someone in your other thread wrote that 250K is normal, but that's not really true. Of course, your bass may be entirely different, but I would always use a 500K for passive basses such as the old Ibanez GSR 200, standard Fender Jazz, and Yamaha RBX 160-270.

Oh and for the above, www.allparts.com is useful.

[Jim Hull]

My amp has stopped working. Not switching on at all. It was fine a few weeks ago, didnt play my bass for a while, and now its broke. I have tried replacing the fuse but that hasnt work. Any electrical minded folk have any ideas on what it can be?

[WHoRRID]

check for n loose/unconected wires, uhm other than that i have no idea if uve properly replaced the fuse. if theres a repair shop near by just take it there. btw what amp is it?

[Elemetal]

hey. i have a question. when i'm playing and my cable moves, it makes a noise like you pull the cable out and touch it. i fairly certain it's something to do with the input and i took it apart and looked at it. none of the wires were loose or anything, but it's like the cable looses contact with the little things in the input when i move it around. do i need to buy a new input or something to fix it? or can i just do something simple?

PLANET WAVES CORDS GET EM.

[Jim Hull]

check for n loose/unconected wires, uhm other than that i have no idea if uve properly replaced the fuse. if theres a repair shop near by just take it there. btw what amp is it?

Checked all the wires, replaced the fuse in the plug. Still not working. There is a fuse inside the amp, so I think that is the problem. Im looking for a replacement but no where seems to have such a small ampage fuse. 500mA. Nowhere. Ive been out for about 2 hours driving to the towns near me, but no luck thus far.